Answer
Aug 13, 2013 - 01:59 PM
John, what most drywood termite techs fail to realize is that sometimes there are easy ways to control drywood termites. Sometimes not, but when it comes to tenting and fumigation, unless the termites are so widespread that it doesn't make sense, a spot treatment can work and can save a lot of money.
The added benefit, is that if you use a long lasting product, then the chances of termites reinfesting that area are practically none.
If it were my house, this is what I would do -
1) Take off the eave fascia if possible to expose the joists or studs. Remove as much wood as possible to exposse the termite kick out holes or possibly even damage/galleries.
2) If you find kickout holes, then take a small drill and drill into them. Sometimes you can penetrate the galleries this way.
3) If you penetrate a gallery, or can find the right kickout hole, then foam it with Termidor Foam. Termidor Dry can also be effective and allow the holes to be "Dusted" with Termidor.
After Everything is done this way, consider spraying all the wood in the eave with Bora Care. Bora Care will penetrate wood up to 2" thick and kill whatever is inside. It will also provide lifetime protection. It doesn't go away.
4) Replace the wood and have a beer.
If you do this right, you can remove the facia in most cases with little or no damage. If you prefer, have a carpenter do it.
Structural fumigation is big business for the companies that do it. But they also know that when the tents come off, the termites can swarm and come back.
That's why I usually prefer spot treating first and then only fumigating when ABSOLUTELY necessary.
My favorite beer is Dos XX (green bottle). :-)
Hope this helps.
Ron
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